My last Arabian night

Just made it back to our hotel in Jordan after a long drive back from Aqaba along the Desert Highway and then a stop off at the citadel and Roman theatre in Amman.

I'm going to finally admit in writing to being ill. I have a hacking cough and full on head cold but I deserve no sympathy. Who in their right minds sleeps outside in freezing temperatures and then goes snorkelling in chilly waters when they're already feeling under the weather?

Fortunately the group are looking after me - I have Sudafed, Strepsils and Benilyn, so I'm nicely spaced out for my last Arabian night here in Amman.

The snorkelling btw was absolutely worth it. Shoals of pretty coloured fish and beautiful coral formations. We had the boat to ourselves and it was really interesting being able to see Saudi, Israel and Egypt all from the same spot. Another spectacular sunset on the way back too.

Tonight we are off out for our final meal together. I wish I could stay longer as I feel that I've only scratched the surface of this fascinating country. I think I may well come back and would recommend it to anyone reading.

Location:Amman, Jordan

Shooting stars...

Well, one shooting star to be precise but it elicited a gasp from me that was loud enough to wake the whole campsite. In my excitement I almost forgot to make a wish...

So I literally watched the sun go down on 2011 and watched it come up on 2012. The photos won't do either the sunset or the sunrise justice but they were both incredible. As for the night sky in the desert, I've never seen anything more beautiful. Just five of us decided to sleep outside around the fire having seen the New Year in and I had a glorious night trying to count the stars whilst listening to our new Bedouin friends chattering away in Arabic. Didn't get a wink of sleep but that meant that I was able to stir Kat at the first sign of daybreak and convince her to trek across the sands with me to somewhere with a clear eastwards view.

Wonderful food at the camp too. A dish called Zarb (sp?) for dinner which was lamb, chicken and vegetables cooked buried in the sand and then a yummy omelette for our well-earned breakfast.

Now in Aqaba and getting ready to do a boat trip on the Red Sea and perhaps a spot of snorkelling. Time to recharge the batteries.

(written on 1st Jan)

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Location:Aqaba, Jordan

Petra from above

Our second full day in Petra was just as amazing as the first.

We started by taking a secret way to a viewpoint overlooking the Treasury from above. As well as being secret, it was a rather challenging hike and I was very glad to not be scared of heights and have some rock climbing experience! I loved it but there were a few hairy moments for those with vertigo or short legs!

Having drunk in that unusual view alone, we made our way to the High Place of Sacrifice to look down over the whole of Petra. Another brisk hike but through a landscape that continually surprises you.

Finally 7 of us decided to walk the long route back down into the city to take in some more tombs and temples but what actually stood out most were the beautiful colours and shapes in the rock. No artist would be able to achieve what nature has produced all by herself.

So, now it's New Year's Eve. In 2011, I had 3 resolutions: do more stuff; fall in love; and read more. I can put big ticks next to the first two - both achieved in spectacular fashion - and two out of three ain't bad.

For 2012 I think my resolutions will be: do less stuff; fall out of love; and write more. I don't fancy my chances much but you've got to at least start the year with the right intentions!

Tonight will be spent sleeping underneath the stars in the desert of Wadi Rum. I've been assured that it's an experience I will never forget.

One thing's for sure, I won't have mobile reception, so I wish anyone reading a very Happy New Year! Over and out until 2012.

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Location:Petra, Jordan

Walking in Lawrence's footsteps...

Today was a very special day. It's hard to describe how awe-inspiring this place is... I can only hope that some of my many (many) photos will do it some justice.

My walking skills came in very handy as I was able to do everything on offer today and have time in each place to really soak it all in. Fortunately my roommate, Kat, also proved to be speedy uphill, so I had some lovely company too. We both had fantastic shots taken of us by a rather dashing young American at what the Bedouin call 'the end of the world' ... a viewpoint overlooking the desert mountains. We could have stayed for hours... looking at the scenery that is, not the American!

On the way back, we bumped into Khalid and really enjoyed his companionship on the return hike. Because of him, we were invited to share tea with an elderly Bedouin woman who was selling a few scarves just off the path. I then bought one from her that Khalid helped me tie properly on my head, Lawrence of Arabia style. Very fetching or so I've been told!

I love the richness of the history and the sheer freedom of this place. I can fully imagine anyone standing on a high point in Petra feeling totally invincible.

Most of all, you could never tire of looking at the colours and formations of the rocks here. It feels a bit like you've wandered on to the set of Star Wars!

Going back tomorrow for more. Can't wait!

Location:Petra, Jordan

Wow, wow, wow!

Three big wows today (Wed 28th):

1. Being charged 25p for a the best falafel sandwich I've ever eaten, having watched it being made from scratch by the smiliest man I've ever seen
2. The location for eating said sandwich... the vast and breathtaking canyon of Wadi Musid
3. Rounding the corner on our nighttime walk into Petra to see the facade of the treasury lit by hundreds of paper lanterns. Magnificent.

The 4km walk this evening was very welcome after a lot of driving. But my legacy from the Trailwalker was once again evident in that I seem to only have one walking pace: fast. Or more accurately, faster than everyone else!

The time on the bus was certainly not wasted. I've learnt a great deal about Islam and the values of the Jordanian people and witnessed a beautiful rosy sunset over the desert.

Now really looking forward to a full day in Petra. From what I've seen already, I don't think it's going to disappoint!

Location:Petra, Jordan

10 years younger?

They promised I would look at least 10 years younger after my dip in the Dead Sea... especially if I slathered handfuls of black and slimy mud all over myself first. Close inspection in the mirror on return to the hotel reveals that I have yet again fallen victim to a marketing man's spin.

Well, I may not look any younger but I will concede that when I stepped out of the water this afternoon my shoulders had dropped a few inches and I had got to know my fellow travellers a little better. Rolling around in mud in your swimsuit with a bunch of strangers is certainly one way to start building bonds!

Today I have been overwhelmed by the warmth of the Jordanian people and the quality of their humour. I have been on the receiving end of so many bright and genuine smiles and am tuning into the gentle and dry comedy that is delivered with a totally deadpan expression, especially by our guide, Khalid. Who incidentally must be Theo Paphitis' long lost identical twin brother (it's quite disconcerting!)

The other unexpected picture I am left with is of a boy (he couldn't have been more than 17) hobbling around our hotel lobby on crutches. Apparently some of the Libyan rebels are here receiving treatment for wounds received during the recent troubles. Plenty of food for thought.

Apart from the Dead Sea, we spent an interesting morning visiting the ancient Roman city of Jerash. We had this amazing site pretty much to ourselves which from a selfish perspective was great. However, it highlights an uncomfortable trend for the Jordanians... since the uprising in Egypt, tourism (which previously made up 26% of the country's economy) has dropped by around 90% in Jordan. And with the situation in Syria escalating, there doesn't really seem to be much light at the end of the tunnel.

Tomorrow we're off to Petra which normally has 6000 visitors a day at this time of year but is currently averaging 400. Fewer people to get in my photos I suppose...

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Location:Amman, Jordan

If I'm a *real* backpacker...

... why am I loving being in the Executive Club Lounge at Heathrow so much? Wonder how many free Latte Machiatos I can drink before take off...


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Location:Galleries Lounge, T3 Heathrow